Hike date = May 21, 2024
The longest hike of our two weeks of guided trekking in Scotland, Suilven is the western-most peak in Assynt. Like Cul Mor and Stac Polliadh, Suilven is in the the Northwest Highlands Geopark, awarded UNESCO geopark status in 2004. Suilven is notable for a long, relatively flat approach followed by a short and very steep summit approach. Being neither a Munro nor a Corbett, it’s reportedly less busy than nearby peaks that qualify for those lists.
Getting There
Just 5 of our group of 8 hikers climbed into the van before our guide pulled out from our temporary home in Ullapool. We traveled about 18 miles (29 km) on the A835, then turned left for another 19 miles (31 km) on A837. The final few minutes of the drive covered less than 1 mi (~ 1.5 km) on the single lane Cansips Road to the car park. Lucky for us, there was one spot left in the the small lot that can accommodate less than 20 vehicles. There are no toilet facilities at this parking lot. We grouped up for a “before” shot before heading out, but I didn’t get a copy from the person who took it.
Long Approach
The car park consists of pullouts on either side of the tarmac road. Just past the parking area, the road transitions to private, paved access to Glencansip Lodge. The Assynt Foundation purchased the estate in 2005. The former shooting lodge was converted to a bed and breakfast (apparently seeking new management as of the date of writing) and there’s an artist studio on site, as well.
After circling around the lodge, the route transitions to a two land ATV track that made for good time. Stone walls bisected the rolling landscape, bees were busy in the common gorse and we saw plenty of lochs and lochens.
Suilven seemed very far away!
Some stretches of the track roughly paralleled a stream, Abhainn na Clach Airigh.
Maybe 5 or 6 km (3-4 miles) along, we crossed a well-constructed bridge.
Less than a km past the bridge, we left the two-lane ATV track, turning sharply right at a stone marker. Suilven lay dead ahead, but mostly obscured by the rolling intervening landscape.
This single file stretch of the trail was well-maintained, clearly overlaid with gravel. We appreciated this as the route wound it’s way across the somewhat boggy moorland, passing alongside Loch a’ Choire Dhuibh (where we saw a few people taking a dip on our return).
Ascent
Finally, about 7 km (4.5 miles) after leaving the parking lot, we approached the ascent portion of the hike. Our guide pointed out a few people way up the grassy gully that leads to the “nick” on Suilven’s ridge. At first glance, it looked like they were going straight up, tackling one of the steepest hiking angles we’ve experienced.
There were a few switchbacks as we started the climb, and some short runs of stone steps as we continued to work our way up. And then finally a hands on bit just before we arrived at the “nick”.
Our sudden moment of arrival at the ridge at the top of the gully was wonderful, with a lovely view opening up to the south towards Stac Pollaidh. We had a short rest and snack break here, taking photos in all directions.
Our guide soon urged us on towards the summit, explaining the likely history of the remarkable drystone wall that climbs up, over and down Suilven. Thought to have been built by crofters in exchange for famine relief during the Highland potato famine in the 1840s, it’s in excellent condition.
Beyond the wall, the path ascended towards the summit, with a little very easy scrambling.
The view looking behinds us, to the amazing spire of Meall Meadhonach, was sensational. The domed, grassy summit of Caisteal Liath is the true summit of Suilven, at 731 meters. From there, the view takes in the rocky knolls of the watery Assynt landscape and the distant North Atlantic Ocean.
We enjoyed our picnic lunches on the grassy slope looking out to sea and had plenty of time for photography after eating our sandwiches.
Descent
Inevitably, it was time to retrace our steps. Our guide cautioned us to take care on the way down, as it’s easy to misstep and get an injury when you’re tired. One member of our group had a few missteps on the way down, but managed to avoid falling / injury. It kind of freaked me out being behind them, so at first opportunity I moved further ahead in the group.
Once we reached the relatively flat ATV track, it was a matter of continuing to put one foot in front of the other for the long outward trek. Conversation ebbed and flowed, seeming to pickup whenever one of us remembered a landmark from the morning.
Mr GeoK and I fell a little behind when we stopped to try to photograph butterflies.
But with no success after a few tries, we hustled along through the common gorse bushes and made it back to the parking lot in time to join the “after” group selfie!!
SUMMARY
Suilven is the western-most peak in Assynt and makes the list of Scotland’s “Grahams.” Watch Mr GeoK’s Relive video recap, here, to get a good sense of this hike.
Our GPS clocked the distance at 21.7 km (13.5 miles), and took our group 8 hrs 45 minutes, including photography stops and an extended lunch break. Total elevation gain = 1019 meters (991 net). It was our “biggest” hiking day during our two weeks of guided hiking in Scotland and well worth the effort.