I don’t know a lot about my family history, but I have it from multiple relatives that my paternal grandfather emigrated from Kristiansund, Norway in 1903. This was two years after my great-grandfather emigrated, and he was ready for his wife and children to join him. While sightseeing in Kristiansund, I spotted an information sign with the original Norwegian spelling of my family’s surname. I shared a snap with my parents and siblings. Spotting the family name “in the wild” – even though there might be no actual relation – made it worth going quite off the beaten path in Norway. Maybe when I’m older and greyer, I’ll delve more deeply into the family history.

A Few Facts About Kristiansund

Kristiansund’s history is rooted in Norway’s fishery. For a stretch, it was the country’s largest exporter of klippfisk (dried, salted cod). Today, major oil companies have offices in Kristiansund, where they manage their Norwegian offshore operations. Kristiansund’s population of just under 20,000 resides on the three small islands, making Kristiansund one of Norway’s most densely populated cities.

Due to the city’s leading role in fish processing and international shipping, there used to be up to seven consulates in Kristiansund. Today there are five: Britain (temporarily closed), Finland, Latvia, the Netherlands and Portugal.

Kristiansund was one of the most heavily bombed locations in Norway during WW II. Germany commandeered Kristiansund as a strategic location for naval operations including U-boats, an airfield and radio base, and as a transportation link between Swedish iron ore mines and Germany’s military machine. As a result, Kristiansund has a somewhat homogeneous 1950s/60s look to many of its buildings. There are exceptions though – both older and newer.

Tahiti

We began our one full day in Kristiansund by walking through the Tahiti neighbourhood on Innlandet, the smallest of three islands that comprise Kristiansund.

The origin of the name isn’t clear. One of the more popular theories is that Tahitiaan sailors formed a small community here, during the heyday of Norway’s bacalao (dried salt cod) trade. Today, the neighbourhood is the site of the annual Tahiti rock and pop musical festival, which attracts upwards of 20,000 attendees.

Harbour Ferry

The Tahiti neighbourhood is where we first caught the Sundbåten harbour ferry. The first passenger boat service in Kristiansund started up in 1876. Signs at each ferry terminal proudly state that Sundbåten is the world’s oldest public transport service in continuous use. I won’t thoroughly fact check this claim, but I will point out that Bergen’s Beffen ferry service started operating in 1874.

Two boats cover the Sundbåten service. “Angvik” began operating on the route in 2005, joining the “Rapp,” built in 1958. The ferry runs loops around the harbour from 07:00 through 22:00 each day, with short breaks for staff to enjoy coffee, lunch and dinner.

Harbour Area

Pulling away from the ferry terminal, we noticed two things. First, yet another cruise ship. This one turned out to be the MS Amadea, with a maximum passenger capacity of 600. This particular ship is known for its long-distance cruises, visiting “unusual and seldom-visited ports,” and for its role as the setting for the German TV series Das Traumschiff. With a maximum passenger capacity of 600, it did not overwhelm Kristiansund the same way a 6,400 passenger ship overwhelmed Geiranger two days earlier.

Second, we spotted a klippfisk warehouse in a poor state of repair – Tahitibrygga. Most recently, it was a party venue. For example, it was the site for some of the evening celebrations for Kristiansund’s annual Nordic Light Festival of Photography. The company that owned Tahitibrygga went bankrupt several years back. With gulls nesting on (and possibly in) the structure, it will continue to deteriorate.

Also visible in this photograph is the elevated bridge we walked over as the final stage in our five-day road trip from Bergen to Kristiansund.

Kirklandet

The Sundbåten service dropped us at the Kirklandet ferry terminal, the area I came to regard as the center of town. We had some time before our morning excursion to the island fishing village of Grip, so we walked around, checking out statues, other public art, parks and more.

Our morning walk took us past Campus Kristiansund, a recently completed project. It’s Norway’s first commercial building classified BREEAM-NOR Excellent and is nearly energy self-sufficient.

The following morning, we spent a bit of time inside while waiting to catch a bus. It’s light and airy, with touches that reminded us of stave churches and Norway’s fishing and forestry industries.

While passing the time before our excursion, we also walked uphill a couple of blocks. We passed a street of mid-20th century pastel buildings on our way to Øverparken. Once there, we gathered information for an earthcache. NOTE TO SELF – log the earthcache!

I also spotted a large relief/mosaic on one end of a mixed use building. It’s a depiction of Lady Justice, which seemed out of place above a grocery store. I later learned the low-rise building was Kristiansund’s courthouse building some 50 years ago, which is more in keeping.

Bad Timing

When we first started planning our trip to Norway, one of the things I learned about Kristiansund is that it’s home to the oldest opera company in Norway. Established in 1928, Kristiansund’s opera company stages up to 150 performances each year – some small and some grand! I was hopeful that the town’s new opera and cultural house, Normoria, would have opened by the time of our visit. Unfortunately, as often happens with big public projects like this, it was delayed. The grand opening will happen October 2025. Too bad for us – it would have made for some great architectural photography!

Grip Excursion

The highest-rated activity in and around Kristiansund is a half-day excursion to the settlement of Grip, about 14 km (8.7 miles) into the Norwegian Sea traveling northwest from Kristiansund. The vessel MS Kvikk, captained by Dag, carries tourists and summer residents. The latter group boarded with totes and bags of groceries and huge jugs of water.

Our 10 o’clock sailing was very slightly delayed as we waited for 13 last-minute guests – an offshore oil platform crew whose flight had been canceled earlier that morning. Thus, for the first time in the years they’d been working the offshore platform, they had a chance to visit Grip. According to Dag, our captain and guide, some 98% of visitors to Grip are Norwegian. So this one’s definitely off the standard tourist path.

Getting There

It’s about a 35 minute boat ride from the Kirklandet ferry terminal to Grip’s southern harbour. Along the way, we saw an oil spill practice drill in progress. We had spotted some of the participating boats tied up in the harbour earlier that morning.

Also along the way, Dag shared information about how challenging it can be to safely navigate portions of the Norwegian Sea. We saw a Sector Light navigation aid en route, and the Grip Lighthouse as we neared the settlement. There are some 13,400 aids to navigation along the coast of Norway.

Grip Lighthouse

Constructed between 1885 and 1888, the Grip lighthouse is the second tallest in the country. The lower white part is painted stone, blasted from the island. The upper red part is stacked cast iron rings. The lighthouse keepers lived inside the tower, which was uncomfortably cold in winter and uncomfortably hot in summer. The only break in the monotony of living alone would be periodic deliveries of supplies. The lighthouse was electrified in 1932 and has been unmanned since it was automated in 1977.

A Brief History of Grip

Since all but four passengers were Norwegian, Dag first offered his guided tour in Norwegian. We had time to wander around, taking photographs. The information contained in this section comes from notes I took during Dag’s English version of the tour, plus subsequent research.

Grip was first settled around the 9th century, when fishermen settled close to the bountiful cod fishing grounds. The large, migratory cod (Skrei) caught in the area had only 1% fat, all in the liver, so it was very easy to dry on stockfish racks. Drying over the summer months rendered the stockfish stable for packing and transport. The drying process was less costly and labour-intensive than klippfisk, dried with salt. The Skrei fishery has been sustained for more than a thousand years and according to Dag, stockfish has been the single biggest contributor to Norway’s economy over the country’s known history.

Vassals

The island and village was the property of the Catholic archbishop of Norway until the Protestant reformation in 1537. At that time, King Christian III seized all Norwegian properties of the Catholic church. In 1728, Trondheim merchant Hans Norneman bought the islet from King Frederick IV. Although they continued to own their homes, residents of Grip basically became vassals to the merchant. They HAD to sell their catch to the merchant at a price set by the merchant. The new owner also had a monopoly store, where everyone HAD to buy their goods. It didn’t take long before island residents were in debt to their merchant landlord.

The islet and its residents’ accumulating debts traded hands more than 20 times. The plight of the local families worsened in 1796, when a storm surge destroyed most of the village. Replacement homes were then owned by the islet’s merchant landowner. After World War II, centralization of Norway’s fishing industry led to a population decline. Grip became deserted in 1974.

I haven’t been able to find clear information about how ownership of the land changed since 1974. But today, the old island houses have become summer homes. Grip’s summer population is 150-250 residents in 44 homes, mainly earlier residents and their descendants who reside in the Kristiansund area.

Grip’s Infrastructure and Amenities

The original harbour for Grip had a north entrance. But during bad storms, fishing boats couldn’t make it into the harbour. Instead, they would shelter on the south side of the island and then teams would work together to transport the boats overland to the harbour. Finally, in 1896, they cut a channel connecting the south to the original harbour. Materials from the excavation were used to create a field for a football (soccer) pitch.

Dag told us Grip was the location for the first wireless phone in Norway, all the way back in 1919! He also told us that the fresh water supply is basically rain runoff collected off rooftops. Going back in time, rainwater was collected from puddles. One year, when the collected fresh water ran out, they had to haul water over from the mainland and the chlorinated taste didn’t go down well. Seawater is used for flushing toilets, and the summer residents save up laundry to do off island.

Electricity comes from two diesel generators in a central building, hence the power lines visible throughout the village. We spotted one home with four solar panels mounted on its sunniest wall. Apparently roof space is reserved for collecting rain water. I wonder why the many boat houses don’t have rain water collection systems?

Grip’s Stave Church

Grip is home to the most northern stave church, the only stave church on an island, the only one in a fishing village, and the only one still in use on regular basis. In fact, just a few weeks before our June 2025 tour, 3 archbishops had visited the little red church.

The current church was constructed in 1470, with some of the walls rebuilt and an extension added in 1621. There’s a little metal “1621” flag on the spire, which was part of the extension. Also in 1621, murals were painted on some of the interior walls.

The high point of the island is just 10 meters (33 feet) above sea level. The biggest recorded waves measured 21 meters (70 feet). The church has saved people from high waves for more than 500 years.

Both the interior and exterior are simpler than the stave churches we saw in Ornes and Lom.

The altar is a beautiful triptych, with a central sculpture of the Blessed Virgin Mary, flanked by Saint Olaf of Norway and Saint Margaret the Virgin. According to local lore, the triptych is one of five altars donated to Norwegian churches by Princess Isabella of Austria after she was escorted by Erik Valkendorf, Archbishop of Norway, in terrible weather while journeying to her wedding to Danish King Christian II in 1515. Hence the incomplete “1515” on the red altar cloth. Four of the five altars have survived to this day, but Grip has the only complete altar in its original church.

Despite having sculptures of three saints, the altar survived the Protestant reformation of Norway in 1537. The altar was restored in 2002.

Miscellaneous Photos from Grip

Mr GeoK flew his mini drone from one of the rocky points on the island. He hasn’t yet processed the video, but here’s a still grab that provides a great overview of part of the Grip archepelago.

All too soon, it was time to wave farewell to Grip, one of the most photogenic spots we’d yet seen in Norway.

Back in Kristiansund

Back in Kristiansund we ordered lunch at a too-highly rated restaurant. It was so disappointing that we didn’t even finish our meal. After settling the bill, we headed out to walk around the the harbour that divides Kirklandet almost in two. A pedestrian walkway makes for an easy route along the western shore. But on the eastern side, we had to route find through a warren of winding streets.

Mellemværftet, Kristiansund’s Historic Shipyard

The main point of interest on the western shore was Mellemværftet, Kristiansund’s Historic Shipyard. This description from Lonely Planet nails it!

Something of a nautical junkyard, Mellemværftet, free and accessible any time, is best approached on foot…It’s difficult to make out what’s what amid the clutter, but it includes the remnant’s of Kristiansund’s 19th-century shipyard, a forge, workshop and workers’ quarters.

The area is also a current day marina, with lots of boats tied up. I took particular note of an older one named Thomas Fearnley, thinking there must be a connection between the wooden boat and the Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art. We planned to visit the Astrup Fearnley during our upcoming time in Oslo.

There’s another Nordmørsmusea building at the head of the harbour that I would have liked to visit. It houses a coffee roastery, but it was closed when we walked past.

Norwegian Klippfisk Museum

The Klippfisk Museum is all the way around the harbor, almost directly across from the Kirklandet ferry terminal. Our walk took us along narrow residential streets that overlooked the harbour, where we spotted the headquarters for the local search and rescue operations.

Other old wharf buildings, again owned by Nordmørsmusea, hugged the shoreline.

We ended up approaching the Klippfisk Museum from the back, and we wandered the buidling for about 10 minutes before finally finding our way to the main entrance. The helpful staff told us the museum was closing in 20 minutes (at 15:00), but one of them offered to give us an abbreviated guided tour.

For me, highlights included the opportunity to taste a sliver of klippfisk, the photography exhibit, the salt room and the display of packing materials and brand labels. Until this tour, I didn’t realize that bacalao exports – mainly to Portugal – are still a non-zero component of Norway’s exports.

At the time of our visit in June 2025, the museum was housed in Milnbrygga, a wharf building constructed in 1749. In October 2025, it’s moving to the new Normoria cultural center. It some ways, that’s sad. I doubt they’ll be able to move the “atmosphere” that’s embedded in the old wharf/warehouse location.

RTB

We missed the harbour ferry by 2 minutes, so had a 30 minute wait at the Gomalandet ferry terminal. Fortunately, there was a little shelter where we could get out of the sun for part of the time. But mostly, I enjoyed sitting at one of the picnic tables, reading about klippfisk and sipping on my water.

On the ferry ride back to our hotel, we finally got around to taking a photo of the big Hollywood-style KRISTIANSUND sign on the hill above the Nordlandet ferry terminal.

Change of Plans

It turned out to be pretty good. We had to transfer once. The first bus was quite empty, but the second one was full. Fortunately, part of the second leg included a ferry crossing, when we could get out and stretch our legs. If I remember right, the total fare was about C$150 for the two of us – exceptional value compared to our rental car!

Final Thoughts

We ran out of time to do any of the scenic walks I’d flagged when planning the Kristiansund portion of our Norway trip. But I feel we experienced enough of this small city to conclude that once the new cultural centre opens and with a couple of better restaurant options, Kristiansund could be a good place to spend a day or two if you’re looking for something a little different from the main tourist destinations in Norway.

FUN FACT – Writing this post, I couldn’t help wonder why dried salt cod is called klippfisk. And the answer is…”klippfisk” in Norwegian translates to “cliff-fish” in English, a description of the traditional method of drying the salted fish outdoors on rocky, seaside cliffs and bare rock-faces, where the sun and wind power the curing process.